If you’re thinking of choosing a wood or laminate floor then this is the system for you.
Installation of the carbon system has never been easier thanks to the unique factor of being a 'dry' installation, this means that you don’t require any messy tile adhesive’s or floor screeds, simply un-pack and get ready to install it, a easy to follow step by step explanation can be found here.
Each carbon heating system is supplied with the following components:
Once the carbon film is installed, your wood or laminate floor can be laid directly on top, there is no need for any additional underlay as the Depron insulation that comes in the kit does that job. We can accommodate most types of floor installations with the carbon film, but we recommend installing your floor as a “floating floor”, we can also accommodate floors that require “secret nailing”.
Floating floor installations are straight forward, once the system had been installed, just lay the flooring directly on top without any additional underlay, and make sure you leave an expansion gap around the perimeter as per flooring instructions.
Secret nailed floor can be done by using the following method, most floors run lengthways with the room, so what you need to do is baton the floor out width ways or 90degrees to the run of the floor, using 2” or 50mm wide ply or MDF batons either 6mm or 12mm thick (whichever suits), cut yourself a spacer which needs to be 340mm long and use this to space the batons across the floor, so you end up with a battened floor with 340mm inside edge to inside edge gaps. Next you would cut the Depron to fill in-between and then lay the carbon film on top. The film we would supply you with is 400mm edge to edge with a 330mm heated centre, this leave a 35mm clear section down each side of the element with which you can staple to the baton and secret nail through.
The carbon heating film has a unique double laminated design which means that the element itself is less than half a millimetre thick (0.03mm) and yet is extremely durable and robust which is backed by a 10 YEAR GUARANTEE.
If your room is a conservatory then you will need to choose the 160w type and use 130w type for internal rooms.

Running costs are difficult to answer because of different variables such as: How old the property is, does it have double glazing, cavity wall insulation, loft insulation, floor insulation and other factors.
The best way to put a cost to it is to work on this equation:
Take your floor area and multiply by the wattage of the heating film, so if it’s a conservatory you would choose the higher output element at 160w per m², in this example my floor space is 10m² x 160w = 1600w which is 1.6Kw (Kilo Watt) multiply 1.6Kw by the cost of your electric Kw per hour which is on average 0.09p, 1.6Kw x 0.09p = 0.14p per hour until the system has reached your desired temperature, then the clever thermostat runs on about 40% of power thereafter to maintain your setting 0.14p x 40% = 0.05p per hour once it has warmed up, a typical day would work out at something like 39p based on 6 hours usage.
This is a crude example but it does give you an idea.
